THE BAROQUE TRIANGLE

SOUTH EAST SICILY

After four months of living on the water we decided to face the challenge of the Sicilian roads.  We drove through arid farmlands soon entering an area of dramatic rocky gorges, as a passenger I occasionally caught glimpses of a vast sweeping hinterland (sadly there were no scenic view stops so Alan has to take my word for it).   This SE corner of Sicily is famous for its Baroque towns, eight of which were added to Unesco's List of World Heritage sites in 2002. 

RAGUSA and RAGUSA IBLA

Ragusa town is just a bus ride away from its seaside satellite town of Marina di Ragusa.  The town is divided into two sections – Ragusa Superiore which sits on top of a hill and then Ragusa Ibla which is much further down the hillside, the two are connected by a series of dramatic winding steps. 

Duomo di San Giovanni Battista in Plazza San Giovanni Ragusa Superiore

Looking down to Ragusa Ibla

Stunning Ragusa Ibla

An earthquake in 1693 destroyed most of the towns in this area including Ragusa Ibla, consequently a new town was built further up the hill - Ragusa Superiore, however the rich aristocratic families hankered after their old homes in Ragusa Ibla and set about rebuilding them. 

The Piazza Duomo is dominated by the Cattedrale di San Giorgio which sits at the top of a grand staircase behind palatial gates.  It was designed by Rosario Gagliadi, a Sicilian architect who was responsible for much of the baroque building in this area  

Piazza Duomo with views of the Cattedrale

Cattedrale di San Giorgio

Piazza Duomo

Street in Ragusa Ibla

Chiesa di San Guiseppe with a less imposing location than the Cattedrale.  This
 was also also designed by Rosario Gagliardi.

Today Ragusa Ibla is an historic centre with winding alleyways and Baroque Palazzi, it's a delight to wander through the narrow streets where there is always another surprise.

MODICA

Modica lies SW of Ragusa, together with six other towns in the area they are part of Unesco’s heritage listing.   The eight towns were rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake – Unesco has recognised that they were built to a ‘uniformly high architectural and artistic standard’.   Like Ragusa there is a high and a lower part to the town – Modica Alta and Modica Bassa.  

Corso Umberto I, the attractive main street looking up to Modica Alta

Chiesa di San Giorgio - the most famous building in Modica, designed by Rosario Gagliardi

It stands at the top of 250 palatial steps leading down to Corso Umberto I in the lower town –  the building is greatly enhanced by the space and its imposing position.

Baroque architecture is exuberant, full of intricate whimsical carvings - it's showy and that show is mainly on the front facade of buildings with an extravagance of cupids, angels, shells, leaves and urns.   It demonstrates the wealth of the local aristocracy from that time and their faith in a new beginning following on from the devastation of 1693.

Almost at the top of the steps........

The elegant three tiered facade of San Giorgio

A pretty interior but the grandeur is all on the facade.............

Looking down the steps.............

A majestic doorway in a side street........

Modica itself was a pleasure to walk around with its wide boulevards and shady trees, it felt like a place that people worked and lived in.

NOTO

Noto is probably the most famous town in the Baroque triangle.  Its main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is lined with baroque palazzi and churches.  

Chiesa di San Domenica

Pretty balcony

I found that each monumental building seemed to want to outdo the other and that individually they would have benefitted by more space,  together with the souvenir stalls and ugly scaffolding with fairy lights we didn’t get the best of impressions from this famous street in Noto. 

A side street

Via Cavour

There were some really elaborate balcony supporting systems.

I am sure a walk through Noto on a sunny winter’s day would leave an altogether different impression.  

MASSERIA DEGLI ULIVI

Lying north of Noto this beautiful hotel set in the midst of olive groves provided a tranquil retreat and a great deal of luxury compared to our usual spartan nautical ways.  After soaking in the local history each day it was a treat to return to the comforts of this old masseria.  

We spent three nights here enjoying the quietness, birdsong and cicadas in the isolation of the olive groves.  The rooms were very comfortable, the swimming pool idyllic and the terrace a great venue for enjoying the local cuisine each evening.

MEETING OLD FRIENDS IN OLD SIRACUSA

SIRACUSA

We sailed into the town coasting along old Siracusa early one evening, the majestic honey coloured buildings just glowed.

Siracusa is a jewel of a town and sadly my photos don't do it justice.  We moored up at a small marina situated by the old town so we felt in the midst of all the action and it was just a short walk into the centre of town.

 Cathedral in Piazza del Duomo

Ancient greek pillar imbedded into Cathedral wall (there are several)

Piazza del Duomo

Siracusa is full of beautiful old baroque buildings mostly built after the earthquake of 1693.  It is however a very old settlement and was once the largest city of the ancient world.  It was a pleasure to walk along the sea front, or wander up narrow winding lanes which inevitably led to another piazza. The morning market was also another great venue, both for people watching and buying fresh Sicilian produce.

Our friends Begona and Elbio joined us here for a long weekend.  Elbio arrived with a very large bag of goodies from Madrid.

Begona, Alan and Elbio poised ready for an aperitivo.......

Elbio guiding Alan on how to cut the Jamon

The master at work...........

Plate of Jamon and Lomo

and Manchego cheese

Beautiful Palazzo Bellomo

Begona and I stumbled across the beautifully restored Palazzo Bellomo as we explored the old streets around the Duomo.   Life must have once been very grand in this 13th Century palace with its quiet inner courtyard and palatial rooms, today it houses collections of old paintings and sculptures.