PALERMO

Palermo, a city of contrasts.......

One end of the Marina - huge cranes in the port area

Hotel Villa Iglea at the other end - a palatial residence and a great place to have a sundowner

We moored 3 Km north of the city in a typically dingy port area, however the marina demonstrated the contrasts of Palermo well.  At one end we had a view of the splendid Hotel Villa Iglea standing out in dramatic contrast to the huges cranes at the other end.

Palermo is a unique and extraordinary city situated on the NW Coast of Sicily.  It is crammed with grimy dilapidated buildings, litter strewn streets and chaotic traffic conditions, yet out of this disorder there miraculously remain the treasures bequeathed by countless invaders over many centuries.  

The Phoenicians founded Palermo 3000 years ago, they were followed by the Carthaginians and then the Greeks.   The Arabs arrived in AD 831 and the port flourished for two hundred years under their enlightened rule.   Roger I took over after the Norman Invasion when Palermo became the most cultured city in 12^th Century Europe.   Following the Normans the Spanish were in power for 500 years until Garibaldi landed and defeated the Bourbons in the lead up to the Italian Unification.  Two World Wars sank the city into massive disrepair, a state from which much of it has never recovered.

Corn seller in foreground

           

We took a taxi into the centre of the old city – Quattro Canti - four corners.  This intersection is surrounded by a circular shape of four curved facades – each façade is lit by the sun at one point in the day.

Fontana Pretoria

Nude statues of Fontana Pretoria

Next to Quattro Canti is a large piazza – Piazza Pretoria which is dominated by the Fontana Pretoria with its numerous nude statues, a rather incongruous position with the many fine churches surrounding the piazza.  

I loved this oriental looking church - Chiesa Capitolare di San Cataldo

Mosaic floors

One of the most striking churches is the pink domed Chiesa Capitolare di San Cataldo it is practically bare inside as the founder was murdered before it was finished in 1160.  I think the lack of ornamentation underlines the beauty of interior structure.

BALLARO Market

Too big for pigs trotters

Photo doesn't demonstrate the size of the onions!

There are many fresh food markets, we wandered into The Mercato di Ballaro with its wonderful variety of produce as well as the venders whose faces were truly cosmopolitan - all corners of the Globe were represented.

CATHEDRAL

Detail of Portico

Construction of the Cathedral started in 1184, it was built over the sight of an old Mosque and was meant to rival the Cathedral of Monreale (N. of Palermo).  There have been many additions and alterations throughout the centuries such as the three arched portico which took 200 years to complete. The Cathedral houses the remains of Roger II and Frederick II, two of Sicily's greatest leaders.

Lot of treasures as you walk the streets - magnificent doorway with ornate lamp

Old Palazzo - now Gallery of Modern Art

PALATINE CHAPEL

This is the jewel of Palermo.  The chapel is housed in the Palazzo dei Normanni, it's beautifully intimate and was designed by Roger II in 1130.  It's a real combination of Arab and Norman aesthetics. After a recent 5-year restoration every surface reveals precious vibrant inlaid marbles and exquisite mosaics.

Every surface is covered with precious marbles

Golden mosaics mostly created by Byzantine Greek artisans

Arabic designs to the walls, decorated with marble inlay,

Chapel lies off the first floor

Stunning ceilings of Roger II's bedrooms 

Roger II's quarters above and below

Another side of PALERMO

We wandered haphazardly off one of the main boulevards and found ourselves in what looked like a war torn zone, it made a huge contrast to the luxurious richness of the Palatine Chapel

Typical Palermo street 

Sword fish for sale outside the Marina

Teatro Politeama, a venue for music lovers,  dominates the Piazza Ruggero Settimo

After several hours of pounding the pavements we resorted to the 'red tourist bus' - it was very welcome to get the weight off our feet.  

CEFALU, North Coast of Sicily

Looking inland from Cefalu Marina

Looking across the bay from Marina - rocky headland with ancient ruins 

Beautiful views on our walk into town. 

We anchored off these rocks for an afternoon of swimming 

Cefalu town dominated by La Rocca, Cathedral spires to the left

Our first view of La Rocca with town on far side

Our arrival at sunny Cefalu was a fabulous gift after weeks of unseasonable weather and choppy seas.  We arrived from the east and our first view was of the enormous rock, La Rocca, which dominates the town.  The marina was tucked away to the east of La Rocca, in a quiet scenic bay, just a short walk around the rock face took us into Cefalu town.  

Parts of the film Cinema Paradiso were filmed here

Cefalu  is a very pretty medieval town with golden stone buildings, narrow alley ways, large piazzas, a small fishing port and a very long stretch of beach.   It was a relaxing place where Alan could buy a Herald Tribune and then we would enjoy a coffee in the Piazza del Duomo, before wandering back and buying provisions at the tiny alimentaris.

Cefalu Cathedral in the evening sun

The silver side altar 

Cefalu’s cathedral is one of Sicily’s 'Arab-Norman' treasures, built by Roger II in the 12^th C.   The exterior is hugely impressive and dominates the Duomo Square.  Inside -  the central apse is covered by  a huge golden mosaic of Christ.

Cathedral interior

A panel of the Cathedral door

The right aisle of the cathedral was being refurbished.  Above old baptismal font.

Old Arabic inlaid marble panel 

So sunny I had to buy a hat........

Farewell Cefalu

The South Calabrian Coast to Straits of Messina

CALABRIA to SICILY

From St Maria di Leuca, on the tip of Italy’s heel, our aim was to reach Sicily as quickly as possible.

Crotone marina with Moody B'Lou in the distance

Our first stop in Calabria was at Crotone after sailing across the Golfo di Taranto (the instep), the town provided a good harbour  and a welcome sunny weekend .   It’s obviously a popular transit stop for boats heading to Greece, we seemed to be the only boat going west.  Crotone was once a thriving ancient Greek town and Pythagoras lived here for 30 years – nothing remains of the ancient splendour and today Crotone appears to be a pleasant working town.

Small harbour at Le Castella

Fortified Castle of Castello Aragonese

The next stop was at Le Castella, we managed to squeeze into  a berth alongside the harbour quay, luckily a friendly old chap helped out with our lines.  This harbour was mainly for small fishing boats and pleasure craft so we were lucky with our mooring.  The town is named after the Castello Aragonese, a fortified castle which lies on a small headland beside the town.  Each day it attracts coachloads of tourists who are catered for by lots of rather down-market souvenir shops.

View from the boat with Pizza restaurant on right

Long stretch of white beach at Rocella Ionica

From Le Castella we sailed to Rocella Ionica which was a very pleasant and relaxed place.   The marina was situated 3 km outside of the town, so our bikes had an airing.  The bicycle path stayed parallel with a long white beach eventually leading us into the centre of R.I.  It was quite busy and obviously the last day of the school year as students honked their horns and cried out in excitement.  There was ample opportunity for provisioning in the quiet little alimentaris, also a good cafe over looking the square.

Old fortifications being restored at R.Ionica

The marina had an excellent restaurant and was famous for its pizzas which were sold by the meter!  We were able to share a half meter of a really delicious thin crispy based pizza, Alan's choice with chilli at one end and my end with Rocket.  I also must mention friendly Francisco who ran the marina, he was so helpful and even drove me to the laundry.

Early morning light off Capo Spartivento

Our last stop off mainland Italy was at Capo Spartivento.  We anchored overnight anticipating a lengthy and challenging voyage up the Straits of Messina to Messina Town.

SICILY

 

Messina Marina looking deceptively calm, Italy in distance

Marina in foreground and Messina town

View from Marina

Our initial introduction was via the Straits of Messina, a narrow turbulent passage of water separating Italy  from Sicily.  Having rounded the toe of Italy’s ‘boot’ we fought our way north crossing over to hug the Sicilian Coastline.  Messina is the main port dealing with a non-stop traffic of ferries, cruise ships, freighters, fishing boats and yachts.   Alan kept in touch with the Radio Controllers – not difficult for an ex airline captain.   We moored the boat at Messina Marina which is north of the main harbour.  The strong currents, winds and wakes from the passing boats made it an uncomfortable berth, we have never  used so many ropes to tie ourselves to a quay.  

Messina itself was pleasant enough with many tree lined boulevards and impressive public buildings including a grand theatre and the Cathedral.  The roads were like race tracks – Sicilian traffic will take a bit of getting used to.    We enjoyed a very good lunch at the Osteria del Duomo where not surprisingly we were in the company of several priests.

North of Messina town, coastline was all developed, mostly with apartment blocks

North of Messina - Sword Fishing boat with tall mast on left

Travelling north of Messina the coastline was densely populated with apartment blocks – it reminded me of a 1960/1970s Hong Kong – the buildings all jammed together albeit in a colourful way.  

Porta Rosa Marina

Church on rocky peak

Beautiful coastline between P. Rosa and Cefalu (N. Coast)

Once we rounded the NE corner of Sicily and cruised west the vista changed giving way to ranges of dark green hills (surprisingly tree covered).  Our first stop on the North Coast was at Porta Rosa, a marina incorporating holiday homes and a hotel.  We managed to avoid the crowds having secured a mooring near the Marina Entrance.  The seas were calm, the sun was warm and there was a dramatic coastline to cruise along.