Thursday 30 May 2013

Corfu Trail Days 3 and 4

DAY THREE
Rekini to Spartylas NE Corfu


After spending a night in Corfu Town we were ready to get back to our hike.  Day three started at the village of Rekini, north west of Corfu Town.  Our taxi driver, Dimitri, drove us into the hills but stopped at a fantastic bakery so we could buy spinach pastries for our picnic lunch.

Not so much stepping stones but a thin plank
Our walking notes described a river where there were apparently plans for a bridge but in the meantime we had to make do with stepping stones...........


At this early point in the walk we managed to get lost.  Begona got us back on track using a basic map and compass.   Most of my images show clear pathways but much of the walk seemed to follow tracks that were well hidden and obviously rarely used.  Not only did we have to find secure foot holds but we also had to tackle vast amounts of undergrowth as our bodies fought a way through.



We stopped for a break as there was another steep ascent ahead - the hidden pathway climbed a precipitous hill to our right
Begona leads the way
The village of Sokraki provided a civilised stop for light lunch and refreshment.   The remainder of day 3's walk  proved to be difficult to follow, occasionally we would catch sight of a yellow CT sign and we would feel reassured, but these signs were scarce.   However, this didn't detract from our enjoyment of the beautiful countryside.   We eventually ended up in the mountain village of Spartyllas which had good views of Albania.   Here as if by magic, Dimitri appeared - we were all glad to get the weight off our feet and lie back in his luxurious Mercedes.


DAY FOUR
Walk from Porta to Agios Spiridonas
across saddle of Pantokrator Mountain, NE Corfu

Rosie at summit of Pantokrator Mountain

We were warned that this, the last day of our walk, would be the most strenuous - it started with a two-hour climb finally reaching the highest cull of the Karst Plateau.   Once we reached the summit we were welcomed by a large herd of goats and spectacular views. 
  


Palia Perithia, a semi abandoned Byzantine village
From here we followed a rough trail downhill - again signage was scant and it was mostly guesswork.
We finally ended up at Palia Perithia, which is a popular haunt for tourists, there were numerous tavernas and we enjoyed a rest over a refreshing cool drink.  From Palia Perithia we descended further via old mule tracks through a gorge with distant views of the sea


A distant view of  the sea -  still very distant!
We walked through oak woods......
through quiet villages, Rosie stopped to admire rampant Pelargonium

Of course, the wild flowers were our favourites


 and then though more oak forests. 


We ended our walk at Almiros on the north coast.  Begona and Rosie have a toast at a welcome beach taverna whilst we wait for Dimitri to drive us back to our hotel at Nissiaki Beach.

Dimitri with Begona and Honey (Rosie)
Finally I'm including a photo of Dimitri, taken a few days later as he became our permanent taxi driver whilst in Corfu.  Dimitri was a real character, he had worked in New York for decades so was very 'service' orientated - extremely puntual sending us updates by mobile texts, great NY English and a way with words  - he was quite charming.  

Tuesday 28 May 2013

The Corfu Trail Days One and Two

Boat still on land, only access by 'wonky' ladder
Whilst Alan prepared the boat for summer adventures I journeyed north from Lefkas to Igoumenitsa where I caught a ferry to Corfu.  Just south of Corfu town I met up with English friends Begona, Rosie and Cathy for our much anticipated walk along the Corfu Trail.


DAY 1
The walk started on beautiful Issos Beach SW CORFU.
 We walked to Korission Lagoon and eventually back to Messonghi on the East Coast
The start of our walk -  deserted Issos Beach on western side of Corfu
Cathy, Rosie and Begona

We left the beach and headed across the Juniper sand dunes
 towards Korission Lagoon
We didnt' see any other walkers but did meet this tortoise
Small fisherman's house at entrance to lagoon - note shrine set into wall


After leaving the lagoon we walked inland passing by fields of wild flowers.  
The first days walk ended at the beach resort of Mesonghi (E Coast), it was a fairly easy day on the flat and didn't really prepare us for what was to come! 





Our first two nights were spent at Blue Horizon Hotel - we were welcomed warmly by George, Victoria and Stan.  The hotel had amazing views over the sea.


The Corfu Trail was established as a walk in 2001 and we managed to hike a modest part of the 220 K trail over four days.   It runs south to north; the trail utilises old mule paths passing through idyllic countryside.






DAY 2
Strongili to Sinarades (Central Corfu)

We walked through old Olive Groves and climbed a narrow hill path to Kamianata
View from a dear old lady's terrace in Komianata
Begona waving from deserted house she fell in love with
Lady who had kindly shown us view from her balcony giving Begona directions, and Rosie takes a rest

Photo taken from the other side of Kamianata village.  From here we descended, walking through quiet villages, then began a steep ascent up Mound Agii Deka, where we discovered an abandoned monastery - I was obviously too exhausted to take photos .....


After our exertions it was time for a lunch break before more lovely pathways.

Another stunning view

Cathy leads the way - this is one of the better pathways, many were totally overgrown......



 We ended up in the village of Sinarades where we relaxed over what we felt was a very well deserved late lunch, instead of taking a photo of the restaurant I was distracted by  'stones on terracotta windowsill'  - it was just waiting to be captured.


Sinarades was a well conserved old village with a beautiful old bell tower.