Travelling North along the Puglian Coast

BARI

Once regarded as the ‘Bronx’ of Southern Italy, Bari, Puglia’s capital is a large and busy port.  It’s not really set up for cruising yachts, but on both our visits we managed to secure a good berth, albeit a long walk along the docks to reach town.

One of many shrines

Washing protected by plastic during the rain

Great swathes of polythene covered washing suspended over the streets and at every corner there was a shrine – maybe more than usual as our visit coincided with the end of the celebrations for the Feast of St Nicholas 7-9 May.  The festivities mark the arrival of the relics of St Nicholas in 11^th Century, they were stolen from Turkey by Italian fishermen.  A special Basilica was built to house the remains and it’s an important site for pilgrimage.  When we visited the church we also saw groups of Russians led by their Orthodox priests.  St Nicholas is the patron saint for children and prisoners – ironic considering the way the relics were procured……….

Intricate carving on church window

Inside the fortified walls of old Bari ‘Bari Vecchia,’ we discovered a fascinating warren of narrow streets which were a pleasure to explore – even in the rain.

Glances into windows as we walked framed ladies busy making pasta, the housing had an old fashioned feel with heavy lace curtains, pot plants and the inevitable shrines.  Tiny ‘alimentari’ grocery stores and enotecas were discreetly hidden away behind beaded curtains.   

Narrow lanes inevitably lead to wide spacious piazzas, we ended up in the Piazza Mercantile where we had another excellent ‘Puglian’ lunch.

The next stop -  

TRANI

Entering Trani harbour

The beautiful Norman Cathedral dominating one end of the Port

Yacht safely secured

The rains disappeared and the sun shone as we entered Trani harbour.  Trani is known as ‘the pearl’ of Puglia, it’s a very attractive sophisticated town with colourful refurbished buildings, restaurants and cafes lining the port.  

 Fishermen work on the harbour front, mending their nets, gutting their fish and also selling them on small stalls.

Front, Interior and Rear views of the Cathedral of St Nicholas the Pilgrim

A stunning Norman Cathedral stands at one end of the harbour overlooking the sea – it’s tall and imposing and was completed in the 13^th century.  The interior is awe inspiring in its simplicity with huge colonnades lining the central nave, the whole building has been magnificently restored and is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim not to be confused with Father Christmas' predecessor, St Nicholas the patron saint of children and prisoners.

Modern looking Trani Castle completed in 1233

Beyond the cathedral lies a magnificent Castle built by Frederick II, it has a very pared down modern appearance.  Apparently Puglia was his preferred place of residence and this is just one of the many castles he built throughout the state.

Cathy admiring central courtyard and main staircase 

The castle in Trani has undergone a wonderful restoration; the refurbishment shows the basic medieval structure, then the 16^th Century modifications to accommodate more modern weaponry and lastly renovations connected to its final use as a prison (1844-1972) .

As well as a beautifully restored historic centre with the usual warren of narrow lanes lined with faded palazzi, there’s also a well laid out large modern town with wide boulevards and tree-lines piazzas.

Horse and Ass on the menu

The real focus for visitors at Trani is around the port with its many restaurants and bars, although we did find a restaurant that focused on horse and ass meat, the main attractions remain the fresh seafood.

Final view as we reluctantly sailed away.

From Trani we sailed to our most northerly destination - VIESTE.