Tuesday 20 August 2013

NW SICILY





We spent a few weeks exploring the NW Coast and found several pretty coastal resorts with long stretches of white beach and dramatic backdrops of high mountains.

CASTELLAMMARE DEL GOLFO

Castellammare del Golfo - looking towards old port from the boat
Looking down on old port (after climbing dozens of steps)
View from boat - mountains surround town
View of coastline surrounding the town
Lots of steps to get to the centre of town and our favourite restaurant



Cefalu, which I've already written about. is perhaps the prettiest seaside resort on this coast but it draws a lot of tourists.  We also enjoyed Castellammare del Golfo, a lovely fishing town West of Palermo.   An old Saracen castle stands at one end of the port and the harbour itself is lined with unassuming restaurants, cafes and fishermen selling their catches.  Unfortunately our favourite restaurant Scala Antiche was in the centre of town and required a hike up the steps, good for the appetite.....

SAN CAPO DI VITO


This resort has wonderful beaches and draws hordes of sun worshippers - the town has grown to accommodate its summer visitors but there is little else to entice the visitor apart from the beach. However the situation right on the NW promontory is dramatic.

Alan, Catherine and Peter Swords
CACCAMO CASTLE built in 10th Century
My Irish cousins spent two weeks with us in this NW area of Sicily.  One day we hired a car and Peter drove us into the interior to visit Caccamo Castle.  That day was full of incident!  First we had to fill the car with petrol, that required finding a petrol station - not easy with one way systems and a town that's bisected by a busy railway line + Italian drivers!  An elderly lady actually drove into us as we waited at a tiny level crossing.  We finally succeeded in filling up the tank and finding our way out of town (not easy!) - our first stop was at an old Church where we managed to lock ourselves out of the car!   Then the road became impassible due to rough surface so we joined a motorway and headed West to the old Castle of Caccamo.   Originally a Norman stronghold, the castle was enlarged by the noble Chiaramonte family in the 14th C.

EGADI ISLANDS

Levanzo hamlet, the bay next to where we anchored
Peaceful bay of Cala Fredda, South Levanzo 
From Capo di Vito we sailed west to visit the Egadi Islands.  We just had time to visit the one island - Levanzo.  Today the islands attract tourists for the clean waters and quiet environment.   The Egadi islanders have always lived off the sea and they are famous for tuna catches.

TRAPANI

Peter and Catherine posing in pedestrianised Corso Vittoria Emanuele
Old Fortification
On our early morning walk - North side of old Trapani
In the Square there was a gathering of vintage Fiat 500s - so cute......
Trapani was a delightful surprise to us all.  Situated on the NW corner of Sicily, it's a busy port serving the Egadi Islands and a major centre for tuna fishing.   The Spanish landed here in 1282 and began their 500 year occupation, many of the buildings show their influence.   The town follows the usual pattern of having a historic centre as well as a modern town.  The port is in the historic centre which is on a narrow promontory, so sea views on both sides as you walk along the old streets.   We really liked this underrated place, the boat was moored in a friendly marina which led out past the trawlers and the fish markets – there was also the best stocked Enoteca we’ve come across.  The central walkway in the old town – Corso Vittorio Emanuele was lined with splendid old buildings in the Baroque style.  Sadly it was here that we farewelled my cousins, but first we managed a visit to the old walled town of Erice. 

ERICE



Views and part of the walled fortifications at Erice
More fortifications and views inland
There were many churches - The Duomo is still a 'working' church many of the others were used as museums
One of the 60 odd churches in Erice
very slippery paving stone - especially on an incline 
Attractive doorway on one of the squares
Erice is on Mount Eryx, 750 m above sea level and looks down over Trapani - thankfully there was a cable car and the ride gave us incredible views.  The old walled town was full of narrow lanes mostly covered in very slippery but highly attractive paving stones!  I was temped to walk in my bare feet.............   There were also 60 churches (maybe years ago every family had their own church!) - we managed to visit a few!  However the views were the most outstanding feature of Erice.

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