SlaterSailing2013: PALERMO

Palermo, a city of contrasts.......

One end of the Marina - huge cranes in the port area

Hotel Villa Iglea at the other end - a palatial residence and a great place to have a sundowner

We moored 3 Km north of the city in a typically dingy port area, however the marina demonstrated the contrasts of Palermo well. At one end we had a view of the splendid Hotel Villa Iglea standing out in dramatic contrast to the huges cranes at the other end.

Palermo is a unique and extraordinary city situated on the NW Coast of Sicily. It is crammed with grimy dilapidated buildings, litter strewn streets and chaotic traffic conditions, yet out of this disorder there miraculously remain the treasures bequeathed by countless invaders over many centuries.

The Phoenicians founded Palermo 3000 years ago, they were followed by the Carthaginians and then the Greeks. The Arabs arrived in AD 831 and the port flourished for two hundred years under their enlightened rule. Roger I took over after the Norman Invasion when Palermo became the most cultured city in 12^th Century Europe. Following the Normans the Spanish were in power for 500 years until Garibaldi landed and defeated the Bourbons in the lead up to the Italian Unification. Two World Wars sank the city into massive disrepair, a state from which much of it has never recovered.

Corn seller in foreground

We took a taxi into the centre of the old city – Quattro Canti - four corners. This intersection is surrounded by a circular shape of four curved facades – each façade is lit by the sun at one point in the day.

Fontana Pretoria

Nude statues of Fontana Pretoria

Next to Quattro Canti is a large piazza – Piazza Pretoria which is dominated by the Fontana Pretoria with its numerous nude statues, a rather incongruous position with the many fine churches surrounding the piazza.

I loved this oriental looking church - Chiesa Capitolare di San Cataldo

Mosaic floors

One of the most striking churches is the pink domed Chiesa Capitolare di San Cataldo it is practically bare inside as the founder was murdered before it was finished in 1160. I think the lack of ornamentation underlines the beauty of interior structure.

BALLARO Market

Too big for pigs trotters

Photo doesn't demonstrate the size of the onions!

There are many fresh food markets, we wandered into The Mercato di Ballaro with its wonderful variety of produce as well as the venders whose faces were truly cosmopolitan - all corners of the Globe were represented.

CATHEDRAL

Detail of Portico

Construction of the Cathedral started in 1184, it was built over the sight of an old Mosque and was meant to rival the Cathedral of Monreale (N. of Palermo). There have been many additions and alterations throughout the centuries such as the three arched portico which took 200 years to complete. The Cathedral houses the remains of Roger II and Frederick II, two of Sicily's greatest leaders.

Lot of treasures as you walk the streets - magnificent doorway with ornate lamp

Old Palazzo - now Gallery of Modern Art

PALATINE CHAPEL

This is the jewel of Palermo. The chapel is housed in the Palazzo dei Normanni, it's beautifully intimate and was designed by Roger II in 1130. It's a real combination of Arab and Norman aesthetics. After a recent 5-year restoration every surface reveals precious vibrant inlaid marbles and exquisite mosaics.

Every surface is covered with precious marbles

Golden mosaics mostly created by Byzantine Greek artisans

Arabic designs to the walls, decorated with marble inlay,

Chapel lies off the first floor

Stunning ceilings of Roger II's bedrooms

Roger II's quarters above and below

Another side of PALERMO

We wandered haphazardly off one of the main boulevards and found ourselves in what looked like a war torn zone, it made a huge contrast to the luxurious richness of the Palatine Chapel